Hello all, I am an absolute beginner woodworker. I have several questions about my project and I could not find these questions anywhere on google. I will be face gluing 2' x 3' x 3/4" plywood together to make a single 1 1/2" sheet in order to hang a 100 pound punching bag from dry wall anchored across 3 wood studs (16" OC). I want a strong glue joint, but obviously there will be several lag bolts running all the way through the plys to help.

1) I want a walnut veneer on the outer ply. This is costly to buy manufactured, so can I join different species of wood-plywood together? I purchased BC southern yellow pine sheet to go behind the walnut-veneer poplar-core plywood sheet. I've read that plywood is stable and does not expand or contract much but could there be enough expansion to weaken the glue joint?

2) The walnut veneer is on both faces of one sheet of plywood. Do I need to sand off the veneer to get a strong glue joint? The veneer face comes sanded nice and smooth, but do I actually have to burn through the veneer and get under it? Since I am such a beginner with wood working I am afraid I might not sand evenly and could cause more peaks and valleys in the wood.

I know these probably aren't critical because the bolts and the glue combined should hold, but for future practice what are the answers here? Thanks all

And yes, I do plan on staining, shellacking, and lacquering the walnut veneer after letting the glue dry for 24 hours and squaring the edges. Use contact after applying the glue, roll on even and thin,
Then wait for it to dry to touch on both pieces. Have ready a flat smooth edge piece of flat wood (like a squeegee) to rub on along with a hard rubber roller (like a lino-ink roller)
Next set standoff 2x2 (or something to allow you to align the veneer over the plywood without the glued surfaces touching.
Finally, pull the 1st standoff and push evenly the veneer on to the plywood and continue pulling out each subsequent standoff until it finally set fully on the plywood.

Roll it off and smooth out with the squeegee. The one thing I would have done differently, is I use A/B Plywood, mostly because both surfaces are sanded and flatter than A/C or B/C.... The C side might need to sanding before applying if it is too uneven.

Differences Between Titebond Glues

Here's a fundamental question from Jason. He asks:

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Hey Marc I have a really dumb question for you. Is there any real significant difference between Titebond Original, II, and III wood glues? Is one really better than another? Thanks for your time.

Not a dumb question at all Jason. Everyone has this question at one point or another. There are actually a number of differences between the three glue types if you dig into the details. But in my opinion, there are only a few factors that really make a difference to the average woodworker.

Price:

The first one you probably already noticed is the price. Looking at Rockler's current pricing on quarts, we have $8.59 for Titebond Original, $10.49 for Titebond II, and $13.99 for Titebond III.

Water Resistance:

The second difference is water resistance. Titebond Original is for interior use only, Titebond II is water-resistant, and Titebond III is waterproof (well, technically its MORE water-resistant). So if you have a project that will be exposed to light water (cutting boards, outdoor furniture, etc..), Titebond II will suffice. If you have a project that will be submerged for short periods or exposed to ambient moisture for extended periods, consider Titebond III.

Contact us to discuss your requirements of Adhesive For Plywood. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.

Open Time:

The third difference is open time. Titebond III offers twice the open time of Titebond II and Original. So for those complex glue-ups, Titebond III would be a good choice. As an aside, you might also look at Titebond Extend if you need even more open time.

Strength:

Strength-wise, there are some differences as well. But in my opinion, not enough to justify paying the cost difference between the three varieties. Check out the PSI strength ratings below.

I recently had someone give me crap for using TB III on a project when all I needed was Titebond Orginal. And then I used TB II on a project where TB III would have been stronger. Well I don't know about you guys, but I am not about to stock three different types of PVA glue just for the sake of a few hundred theoretical PSI. A properly-fit joint with the appropriate amount of pressure will create an incredibly strong and reliable bond using any of the three glues.

So bottom line is for indoor projects, all you really need is Titebond Original. If you occasionally make outdoor projects and cutting boards, stock up on Titebond II instead. And if budget isn't a factor and you don't mind paying significantly more, you may as well just go with Titebond III and cover all the bases.

And speaking of Titebond glues, you can pick up all of your glue supplies and accessories in our Amazon Store. Its a great way to get the stuff you need while helping support The Wood Whisperer!

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