If I had to pick just one kind of cookware to have in my kitchen, it would be enameled cast iron. No, it’s not the most practical choice (that would be stainless steel) or the sexiest (wassup, carbon steel?) or even the trendiest (we all see you, DTC nonstick). But for someone like me who does a lot of stovetop-to-oven cooking, and who doesn’t have a lot of time for a multistep cleaning routine when I’m done, enameled cast iron is as close to perfect as it gets.
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Enameled cast iron works with all kinds of cooktops, including my fancy Italian induction range, and it offers amazing heat distribution and retention. The porcelain enamel isn’t just for looks; it protects the cast iron, making it rust-resistant and nonreactive to acidic foods like tomato. The most ubiquitous enameled cast iron pieces, Dutch ovens, are great for simmering soups and stews, braising big cuts of meat, frying chicken, and even baking bread. At my house, an enameled cast-iron pan is also the go-to for flawless pancakes, seared steak, and crispy grilled cheese.
Le Creuset Signature Dutch Oven with Gold Knob
The moral of the story here is that enameled cast iron is the best because it’s incredibly versatile, amazingly durable, and easy to clean. But there’s one thing it’s not: nonstick.
Last year, when researching enameled cast-iron skillets to test for Epicurious, I learned that a lot of people expect enameled cast iron to release an omelet as easily as traditional nonstick cookware. Among the most popular and top-rated models, nearly every bad review was from someone complaining about the fact that food stuck to the cooking surface. Take, for example, the “Amazon Customer” who was very disappointed that Le Creuset’s “nonstick promise is bogus.” The real problem, of course, is that Le Creuset doesn’t make a nonstick promise because enameled cast iron is not supposed to be nonstick.
I understand why people who aren’t used to cooking on enameled cast iron might be confused. Enameled frying pans with light interiors kind of resemble those aesthetically pleasing ceramic nonstick pans that are nowhere near as durable as enameled cast iron. A textured black enamel could easily be mistaken for pre-seasoned raw cast iron. Even I was fooled by Staub’s traditional cast-iron skillet the first time I laid eyes on it, mistaking the matte black-enamel for a high-end factory seasoning job.
But now, I know better—and my enameled Staub is one of my favorite pieces in my kitchen because it’s a low-maintenance pan that (if you don’t look too closely) seems like meticulously maintained raw cast iron.
Staub Cast Iron 11-inch Traditional Skillet
While most Dutch ovens feature a smooth white porcelain interior, enameled frying pans usually have a darker, slightly textured cooking surface. When I tested 10 different pans, I found that the darker, more textured enamels did a much better job of browning food and of releasing it. The texture helps to prevent sticking by allowing a tiny bit of fat to move around between the food and the surface.
To get the best performance out of your enameled cast iron, you have to follow a few rules. No matter what the inside of your enameled cast iron cookware looks or feels like, food will stick to it if you don’t allow it to fully preheat. Five or six minutes usually does the trick. You’re also going to have a sticky situation if you try to skip the butter or oil.
On the flip side, enameled cast iron doesn’t require seasoning, so cleanup and maintenance are pretty simple. With very little effort, high-quality enameled cast iron cookware will last a lifetime—which is more than you can say about any nonstick pan.
Made In Enameled Cast Iron Skillet
Le Creuset Enameled Cast Iron Everyday Braiser Pan, 3-Quart
Lodge 3 Quart Enameled Cast Iron Dutch Oven with Lid
Always among the gold standards for kitchen equipment, cast-iron cookware is enjoying a surge in popularity. Cast-iron skillets, pans and Dutch ovens are must-have kitchen items for any serious home cook, rare vintage skillets are going for as much as $2,000 on eBay, and the internet is on fire with questions about how to properly use and care for them.
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