My sister Gina is a fantastic cook who does not suffer crappy cookware gladly. Her pans are battle-tested All Clads that have been roughed up over the years, but they take the abuse she dishes out with a shrug. Once, though, I noticed damage to a T-Fal pan of hers that wasn't up to the task; the bottom of the pan had a bit of a dome shape to it, meaning hot oil within the pan pooled around the outer rim but did not cover the higher center. Because of this, the food in the middle of the pan cooked at one temperature while food in the oil around the edge cooked at another. I like to imagine her discovering the fault with that pan and sending it flying out her back door and into the yard, where it would be put to use in the sand box.
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The pans from a new company called Made In promise US-made, premium-quality cookware. The website claims that its direct-to-consumer sales model allows it to offer steep discounts for that quality, citing an example of a $69 pan from Made In which would cost $150 at a typical retailer.
It's a hefty claim. You can buy a 10-inch All Clad fry pan for $150, but at this point you might guess why I started this story by mentioning that doming (aka "concavity") issue. It was a problem I thought I was picking up on when I first started using the Made In pans. I needed to verify whether these pans were domed, and if so, how badly. It was a problem to attack with a feeler gauge.
That idea came from my brother-in-law Ben who, over beer and cribbage, realized that a feeler gauge&#;a handheld fan-like tool with blades of different thicknesses used to measure gap widths&#;would allow me to investigate any doming. Using a six-inch bench knife as a straight edge, and setting the center of that edge on the bottom center of the pan, I could tip one corner down until it touched and measure the clearance at the other end, seesaw style, and compare pans to pans.
Made In Cookware
Long story short, I measured my sister's All Clads, my piecemeal set, and five Made In pans. Out of 16 pans in total, the four with the most pronounced concavity were the Made Ins, and those four ranged between two and six times as far out as the average of all the others.
At this point, I called Wendy Dyer, International Product Director at All Clad to make some sense of what I was seeing. I kept Made In's name out of it, making a point of my desire for pan-anonymity, and asked her to interpret what I was seeing.
"A little bit of a dome is necessary. A lot is bad," she said, making me think I had somewhere between a little and a lot, depending on the pan. She mentioned that cheap pans can warp during cooking, or by going straight from the hot stove to a sink full of water, but she was a bit surprised that I saw it right out of the box.
"If they don't have control over that, it signals a lack of control over the whole production process," she said. "It would lead you to wonder: Is the nonstick going to stay in place? Is the handle secure?"
Dyer also mentioned the most common way to test for concavity is to put a straight edge across the bottom of the pan and measure the dip in the center, but allowed that my method worked fine as long as I had been consistent.
Well, I'm happy to say that the nonstick surface did not slough off of the one nonstick pan in the Made In set and that none of the handles wobbled. That said, not all the news was rosy. Most notably, a Made In representative confirmed to me over that the pans were supposed to be flat on the bottom and sent another set of pans. Compared to the five pans I'd already tested, these were about the same or even a little worse; The only major difference would be that these five would take all five of the top slots for concavity.
I'll stress here that this amount of concavity isn't the end of the world, but I'd certainly be disappointed if I had shelled out between $400 and $500 for Made In's five-pan, two-lid set called "The Core."
Using guidelines for measuring heat management in kitchen pans I found in a New York Times story written by renowned food scientist Harold McGee, I started further testing.
The Heat Is On
I began by checking six pans for even heating: my 12-inch cast-iron skillet; a brand-new T-Fal nonstick; and three-quart All Clad saucier; and three Made In pans, the 11-inch sauté pan, and both the regular and nonstick ten-inch fry pans. What you're looking for in this test are localized hotspots that scorch one part of the pan surface while the rest is just heating up.
I cut out a circle of parchment paper to fit into each pan and weighed the paper down with uncooked rice. My home stove is induction, so I used the same burner for all of the pans, pointed each handle toward the six o'clock position, and turned the burner up to medium each time. All six pans performed well, not perfectly, but perfectly fine and certainly no hotspots. The cast iron, T-Fal and Made In sauté all heated up a bit more in the center, the Made In nonstick was a bit lighter toward the handle, but really it was high marks for everybody. The only mystery was the $30 T-Fal nonstick, which, relative to the other pans, took forever to get toasty.
There are other things worth mentioning here: I use (and tested on) that induction cooktop, which is very efficient and heats like a sonofagun if you've got an induction-friendly pan. Second, there's a lot of hullabaloo over pan material and even heating, but if you use the right size burner for the pan you're using and/or the pan is (very) thick-bottomed, the heating will be pretty even no matter what it's made of.
Made In Cookware
Hotspots did show up in a different way as a result of the doming in Made In's pans. It meant that oil, particularly when it heated up and became a little less viscous, would make a doughnut around the outside of the pan's cooking surface leaving the top of the dome bare. Using my trusty ThermoWorks infrared thermometer, I could see the ring of oil around the bottom of the nonstick pan was around 460 degrees Fahrenheit, while the un-oiled center got up to 510 degrees. It might not make much of a difference if you're flipping veggies stir-fry style, but a steak or Spanish omelette could end up with a two-tone sear.
With three tablespoons of oil, Made In's sauté pan was in the high 300s around the outside after four minutes on medium high yet in the center it was in the mid-300s. Similarly, Made In's stock pot measured in the high 340s at its center, while the closer to the edges, it was ten degrees north or south of 300.
Instagram-worthy cookware is everywhere these days; I&#;ve found myself ready to hit &#;buy&#; on several of them thanks to their cute colors and appealing advertising. But, as someone who&#;s used non-stick pans for the past decade, I know firsthand how much they&#;re prone to scratches and damage. A product can be made with sustainable materials, yes, but I think the real sustainability lies in how much use we can get out of it.
When Made In began showing up on my feeds more frequently, their notable ads caught my eye. There was no over-Pinterestification of these pans; instead, the focus was on quality, longevity, and testimonials from chefs and home cooks alike who use Made In products.
Founded in by childhood friends Jake Kalick and Chip Malt, Made In&#;s mission is to bring restaurant-quality cookware into everyday kitchens. Kalick comes from a long lineage of restaurant suppliers, which means the brand has maintained deep connections with the finest craftspeople and suppliers in the industry. Made In&#;s stainless steel collection is produced here in the US and France, while the bakeware, knives, and carbon steel pieces are made using local materials in France.
To put it simply: Made In knows what quality cookware looks like and also partners with craftspeople who are the best in the biz. I had the opportunity to test products from each of the brand&#;s bestselling collections: stainless steel, non stick, carbon steel, and cast iron. Here are the details:
What I tested:
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I&#;ve been using these Made In products for six months, and I have to say I&#;m delighted. Read on for more info about each product and what I thought!
The saucepan size is a staple in my household. Our previous one rarely saw storage&#;it was either in use, waiting to be washed, or drying on the rack. So when I tested Made In&#;s saucier, I was thrilled to find it was dishwasher-safe!
First of all, it&#;s helpful to know that there is a difference between sauciers and saucepans, which have in the curved vs flat sides respectively. The curved sauciers are good for dishes that need consistent stirring or for finishing pasta in its sauce and getting an even distribution. Perpendicular-edge saucepans are great for quick heating thanks to the fully flat bottom, so are a good fit for reducing stocks and cooking grains. You learn something new every day, right?
This mighty little saucier is an expert task-switcher. I haven&#;t made any saucier-specific dishes in this one, but I&#;ve successfully made soft-boiled eggs, barley, rice, and more (even the occasional exhausted day mac and cheese.) The rolled lip at the top is designed to make pouring easier, which resulted in less mess than usual, and the whole piece cleans up quickly without lasting residue. I especially like the lightweight lid; it doesn&#;t have the air vent I&#;m used to, but it&#;s easy enough to balance across the top when I need to release some steam.
A couple of thoughts on this one; the stay-cool handle works as long as you don&#;t grab too close to the pan (rookie mistake, that one&#;s on me). I also hadn&#;t fully anticipated how small two quarts really is. I have my eye on adding the four-quart size saucepan ($139) to my kitchen rotation so I can cook multiple elements simultaneously.
My parents have had the same wok for well over thirty years, and I&#;ve been envious of its quality ever since my cheap Target wok&#;s handle fell off. Not ideal! Made In&#;s wok came packaged with a protective canvas bag and is a sight to behold (am I the only one who thinks woks are one of the most elegant cookware items?) It&#;s on the heavier side, which is something I&#;d say about many of Made In&#;s pans, but I am also used to flimsy, unreliable cookware.
To test out this wok, I made this crispy tofu I&#;ve been thinking about since I shared it in The Daily Good a few months ago. I&#;m wary of frying anything, thanks to many summers working alongside flippant fry cooks at Sonic Drive-In, but this wok made it so easy. The heat was even and consistent, the handle stayed cool (as long as you don&#;t grab too close to the heat), and any splash was well-contained thanks to the generous size of the wok.
The heat was even and consistent, the handle stayed cool (as long as you don&#;t grab too close to the heat), and any splash was well-contained thanks to the generous size of the wok.
I was able to easily pour out the oil after I was done and transferred in the next batch of ingredients without any burns or blisters. That sizzle when I incorporated everything together&#;there&#;s nothing like it. When I cleaned up after, the wok did have darker and lighter marks on it, but that&#;s how my parents&#; wok looks, and I think it&#;s generally a part of the seasoning lifecycle of the pan. I do need to research how to keep it seasoned and in good shape!
You can get this wok for $99 at the time of writing, but the regular price is $139. I think it&#;s a deal either way, as I know how much use I&#;ll get out of this pan, and I know it&#;ll last me a lifetime.
My previous cookware had a nonstick coating, which was significantly scratched in less than a year of use (I still kept using it despite the warnings not to). The coating on Made In&#;s nonstick frying pan is 100% nontoxic and made without PFOAS, according to the brand, which is nice to know given the increased awareness around the materials we&#;re using in our homes. I especially like that the brand doesn&#;t try to sell you on &#;ceramic&#; coating, which isn&#;t the natural material you think it would be.
To test out this frying pan, I made my cooking nemesis: overeasy eggs. No matter how many tutorials I watch, I struggle to keep them consistent. Sadly, I can&#;t say that Made In&#;s frying pan solved my problems, at least aesthetically. The color, taste, and texture of my eggs were all on point&#;they just weren&#;t pretty and didn&#;t slide gracefully off the pan as I always see in commercials. We&#;ve made various pasta dishes in this pan too, though, and I love how easy the surface is to clean!
Ultimately, I think I&#;d opt for one of Made In&#;s stainless steel options for a frying pan since I&#;m not great at maintaining Non Stick pans. The product itself is lovely&#;it&#;s made in the USA, has great construction, and offers easy and consistent heating. But as to whether this pan in particular will last me my entire life, I&#;m not sure.
My family used Lodge cast iron dutch ovens every night on our summer camping trips, sometimes stacking them on top of one another with coals sandwiched between them. Yet, I never had one of my own until now.
Made In&#;s dutch oven is a robust and flexible addition to my kitchen. We&#;ve made several dishes in the dutch oven, including my favorite chicken chili and a heavenly apple crisp. I especially like how evenly it distributes heat and how the light interior finish helps me get a good look at how the colors of my dish are developing.
I can&#;t wait to make a slow-cooked pot roast in this dutch oven to really get a feel for how the brand&#;s proprietary &#;Cloud Cover&#; lid works. Essentially, there are little bumps on the underside of the lid capture that moisture and send it right back into your dish, preserving both flavor and moisture.
Made In&#;s dutch oven is half the price of Le Creuset, but still maintains the French-made tradition and quality.
Made In&#;s dutch oven is also only $199, compared to the same size from Le Creuset at $420. So, half the price, but still maintaining the French-made tradition and quality. If this investment isn&#;t on your radar right now, you can find even more affordable pieces on sites like shopgoodwill.com and eBay (keep an eye out for good condition and be wary of fakes).
When I got married nearly a decade ago, we received this $20 set of six brightly-colored knives off of our Amazon registry&#;a major upgrade from the flimsy steak knife I used through college. Now, though, the grip is wearing from the plastic handles, and my sharpening efforts are beginning to show reduced returns.
The Made In chef&#;s knife came packaged like it came straight from a skilled and proud craftsperson&#;minimal, gleaming in its newness. The brand notes that it is &#;full tang and fully forged,&#; which means the steel extends from the blade and into the handle so it won&#;t break out of a flimsy handle. After using this chef&#;s knife for several months, I can happily say it makes cooking way more enjoyable. It cuts smoothly, feels sturdy, and has a nice weight to it that helps me balance speed and pressure.
After using this chef&#;s knife for for several months, I can happily say it makes cooking way more enjoyable. It cuts smoothly, feels sturdy, and has a nice weight to it that helps me balance speed and pressure.
While $119 for one knife is way more than my old Farberware set, I&#;m really excited to care for this knife for many years to come. (I have a honing rod for small blade adjustments at home but plan on finding a nearby place to sharpen it for me, like a Sur La Table or Williams-Sonoma. Here&#;s a full guide to caring for your knives!)
The last note I&#;ll make about this knife is that this baby is SHARP. For all my YouTube-refined knife skills, I still cut my finger on day one or two. I haven&#;t had any more mishaps, but it&#;s worth noting that if you&#;re used to dull knives, this will have a learning curve! Just move slowly and mindfully.
Overall, this cookware is a huge win. While it&#;ll run you a higher cost than some of the cutesy cookware sets on the market, I don&#;t think I&#;ll have to replace any of these pieces anytime soon. I will keep a sharp eye (and a wooden spoon) on the Non Stick pan to ensure it doesn&#;t get damaged, but that&#;s my only hesitation.
Skip the trending pots and pans, and invest in a set from Made In&#;your kitchen will thank you.
Key Takeaways:
Emily McGowan is the Editorial Director at The Good Trade. She studied Creative Writing and Business at Indiana University, and has over ten years of experience as a writer and editor in sustainability and lifestyle spaces. Since , she&#;s been discovering and reviewing the top sustainable home, fashion, beauty, and wellness products so readers can make their most informed decisions. Her editorial work has been recognized by major publications like The New York Times and BBC Worklife. You can usually find her in her colorful Los Angeles apartment journaling, caring for her rabbits and cat, or gaming. Say hi on Instagram!
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